A sliding aluminium door can behave perfectly all summer and then leak on the first night of a strong gregale. Maltese winters bring rain sideways, often on a hard north-easterly, and that exposes every worn seal and blocked channel. The good news is that most leaking apertures have a simple cause, and many do not need replacing.
Start by watching where the water appears
Next time it rains hard, look before you mop. The position of the water usually points to the cause.
| What you see | Likely cause | Who fixes it |
|---|---|---|
| Track full of water, spilling inward | Blocked drainage slots | You, or a handyman |
| Drips at the meeting point of two panels | Worn brushes or misaligned panels | Aperture specialist |
| Damp on the wall beside the frame | Failed perimeter sealant | Handyman or aperture specialist |
| Damp below the sill | Cracked or poorly sloped sill | Mason or waterproofing specialist |
| Damp above the frame | Water entering higher up | Waterproofing specialist or mason |
The ten-minute fix: clear the track
Sliding aluminium frames are not designed to be watertight at the track. They are designed to collect water and drain it out through small slots, often called weep holes, along the outer face of the frame.
A season of Maltese dust can block them. Vacuum the track, then clear each slot gently with a soft brush or a piece of wire. Pour a cup of water into the track and check it drains outside. This single job cures a surprising number of "leaking" doors. Never seal these slots with silicone, because that traps the water inside the frame and pushes it into your room.
Draughts: brushes, gaskets and rollers
Sliding panels seal against the frame with pile brushes, while hinged windows use rubber gaskets. Sun, salt and years of use flatten the brushes and harden the rubber. A simple test is to close a sheet of paper in the window or door and pull. If it slides out easily, the seal is not doing its job.
Worn rollers cause a related problem. When a panel drops, it no longer meets its seal evenly, so it scrapes, sticks and whistles. Rollers and brushes are usually replaceable, although older profiles can be hard to match, so take a photo of the frame and any markings when you ask for a quote.
Sealant around the frame
The joint between the frame and the wall takes constant movement and sun, so sealant eventually cracks or pulls away. It should be cut out and replaced with an exterior-grade product, not covered with a new layer. The same prep discipline as bathroom resealing applies. On exposed elevations, check this at the same time as the wider wall sealing work.
Repair or replace?
Repair makes sense when the frame is sound and parts are available. Consider replacement when:
- the frames are corroded or bent
- single glazing is causing heavy condensation
- parts cannot be found
- you also want better sound insulation
Timber apertures are a different job, and the shutter repair guide covers traditional joinery. Check with your landlord or block administrator before changing anything visible on a facade, and take advice on any permit needed in a heritage area or on a scheduled building.
Getting the right quote
Film the leak if you can, and note the wind direction. Photograph the track, the seals and the outside of the frame. Post it to aluminium and aperture providers on Qabbad with the number of openings affected. For a smaller job that combines several tasks, a handyman may be the better first call.
Frequently asked questions
Why does my window only leak in strong wind?
Wind pushes rain against the frame and can force water back up through the track or past worn seals. A window can be fine in light rain and still leak in a storm. Clear the drainage slots first, then check the brushes and panel alignment.
Can I just put silicone around a leaking aluminium window?
Silicone is right for a failed joint between the frame and the wall, once the old material has been removed. Do not apply it over the track, drainage slots or moving parts, because that blocks the drainage and can make the leak worse.
Do I have to replace the whole aperture to stop draughts?
Often not. New brushes, gaskets, rollers and an adjustment can make a large difference if the frame is still sound. Replacement becomes worthwhile when the frame is corroded or parts are no longer available.